Didnt know there was an advertistment on Bestari 206 before..



Well since Hari Raya is closing... well in few months time.. why not? haha

Manual Transmission Gear Oil Change

I changed by gearbox oil during my last service before Chinese New Year 2009, it was a 80W90 Rating. Somehow, after changing, I felt the gear change isn't smooth, it's slightly rougher and sometimes hard to engage into first gear unless I release-and-press the clutch few times and requires a little more force to engage into first. At first, it did not hit me, until sometimes the problem gets very irritating especially when you're stuck in the jam and need to downshift to first gear quickly and avoid other car cutting queue (sometimes I feel like wanted to just SLAM the gear hard).

Then, I decided to check on it and also suspected the gear oil. At that time, I didn't check what specifications oil they used (as they are authorized dealer and have been dealing with Peugeot for long time), and I also didn't know the exact oil specification for manual gearbox.
Finally, when I check it, I notice the one they used for mine was 80W90, and the recommended specification should be BV 75W80.
I also read that this specification was specially recommended for PSA gearbox and it is based on PSA's specification.

I'm not sure if it's safe to use other gearbox oil and is it problems I'm facing really due to the gearbox oil, but I just don't feel good knowing I'm using a different specification moreover with the current gearbox behavior.

Below is some pictures taken from the "User Handbook". For locally assembled Peugeot 206 (aka Bestari), you might not have some of these information. This is a Fully Imported Peugeot 206 Handbook with complete details.




As you can see above, there're some "Servicing" information and guides which covers few pages, including the recommended Engine Oil with a chart.

If you wish to see similar information, you can get it from 2006 Total Lubricant Servicing Schedule For Peugeot PDF:
http://www.lubricants.total.com/lub/content/NT000B84C6.pdf

Here's 2 Page on the 206 extracted from the PDF:




As you can see below, it also mentioned that the transmission oils with BV 75W80 is particularly recommended for PSA gearbox. I got this information off another site about transmission oil:
http://www.bennettlubricants.com.au/transmission-oils/

Ok, finally, I decided to spend again and get the gearbox oil change. The day I planned to go didn't turn out to be successful, but that day, I felt the gearchange even rougher and the difficulties in engaging 1st gear is getting on me especially with the traffic jams. Finally I decided to go the very next day.

As it's a quite rushing thing, and as usual, Bluebox Glenmarie is always fully booked, so didn't managed to go there. Decided to go back to where I change the gearbox oil previously, but surprisingly when I inquire them through phone about the gearbox oil, they only have 80W90 and claimed so far they never have any problems.

So then, I decided to go straight to Kheng Soon 3S since I never been there and have heard from some other owners that they have good service, moreover they're authorised and it's a 3S centre. Supposed they have the "recommended" gearboxoil. I went there without checking further.

Again,... to my surprise, they don't have it, only have 80W90. I asked if they're able to get it, but they can't. Dissapointed, I just have my coolant changed and decided to get the oil somewhere. When I was leaving, I called up Volcare but they too only have 80W90 specification oil. Then I got an idea, which is to get the oil from Bluebox Glenmarie and change it at another authorised SC, but nobody answers.....

So as I drive along... something big and red strikes me... it's... 2 BOOMERANGS! The cousin of Peugeot, Citroen!!! I quickly make a stop and turn into Citroen. Surprisingly, the environment inside looks much better... The front desk personnels seems more friendly and profesional too?
So, I asked for the gearbox oil, they have it! But they were asking me... "Which model?"
I answered: "Actually, I'm driving a Peugeot"
Personnel: "Can use?"
Me: "Can, actually it's same. Anyway, you're selling Total brand?"
Personnel: "No, it's ESSO"
Me: "Oh, can also, it's 75W80 right?"

So, he took the bottle of 2L for me, and I think he finally realiaze the bottle actually have both Peugeot & Citroen logo all over and also behind the box actually have "AUTOMOBILES PEUGEOT" printed.
The bad news: That 2L bottle cost me over RM100...
(A check with Tony, you can get it from him around RM80, I supposed Total brand would be slightly cheaper?)

Back I go to Kheng Soon 3S. Something funny happen, the moment I took out the gearbox oil, the frontdesk personnel first reaction was "That is AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Oil".
I insist that it is not, another person check and still insist it was automatic transmission oil. I insist again, so they get a mechanic over to check and the mechanic verifies it is indeed manual gearbox oil.

Finally the front desk personnel asked me: "Where you buy?"
Me: "Erm... Citroen"
Personnel (eyes big and smiling): "Expensive"
Mmm....

Below are some pictures of the gearbox oil.
For the BE4/5 gearbox, it uses approximately 1.9L of oil.
For MA5 gearbox (Peugeot 206 1.1L, 1.4L, 1.6L), it uses approximately 2L of oil.

Now, after so long story, I guess what you guys really want to know and interested is the "actual" result.
Well, for me, it's better and especially at certain situation, you can feel the gearchange slide smoothly as if got good lubrication.
So far, no more complains engaging 1st gear. There is however slight difficulties at certain times/condition but it's quite common, it's not like the previous which happens most of the time and it's really difficult that you have to release-and-press the clutch again and maybe again.

Disclaimer: I'm not sure if 80W90 can be use on these gearbox or is it actually been approved by PSA. Maybe someone can get some information? As I can't find any information from the internet so far BUT I found similar problems like mine who uses 80W90 and is having difficulties engaging first gear especially, and also read someone mentioned that it will damaged the syncromesh. How true? No idea. Perhaps someone can verify this information.

Peugeot-Assistance (1800-88-0747 or 016-274 0710)

The Twin-lions are ready at your service~

Peugeot-Assistance Hotline: 1800-88-0747 Or 016-274 0710
It offers 24-Hour breakdown assistance for Peugeot cars, regardless of models (yes, 206 Bestari is a Peugeot 206), and free towing within a distance of 150KM.


This is a great news for Peugeot owners in Malaysia as we can now see Nasim's effort to providing better after-sales services for Peugeot in Malaysia. The twin-lions below are captured during the launching of the 407 Face-Lift.

Hopefully we will see more improvements and good news on after-sales services and also spare parts availability and pricing~

One thing tough, I personally thinks strongly that they should rebadge/restore the badge to Peugeot.

206 1.4L Fuel Consumption Data

One of our member, yes, it's uncledee again, just shared his detailed fuel consumption "data" collected for his Chinese New Year holiday trip which covers over 1000KM.
For those who didn't know, uncledee is the one who contributed the very detailed "data" with chart/table of fuel consumption on the previous Fuel Consumption Survey post.

These are "actual" average figures which cover all possible conditions such as, hi-ways, trunk-roads, state-roads, city-streets, slow and hi-speed driving. About 3/4 of the entire journey was within +-20% speed limits . The remaining 1/4 was either crawling below 50km/hr or high-speed 'chasing' above 150km/hr.

No of Occupants: 2 adults (including driver) + 1 teenager + approx 50kg of loads in boot
[total loads around 200kg excluding fuel weight]

Cold Tyre Pressure: 35psi
Tyre size: 185-65-R14 [2% larger in circumference wrt stock tyre 175-65-R14]
Total Distance: 1108km [trip-meter reading] Kuala Lumpur-Kuala Lipis-GuaMusang-Jeli-Machang-Kuala Terengganu-Kuantan - Kuala Lumpur-Putrajaya + spinning around those towns.

Fuel used:
By first filling the tank to the brim [the first top-up was not part of the consumption - only odometer reading was taken, trip-meter was set to 0].
During and at the end of the trip the tank was refilled to the brim again. The total amount of the 'top up' fuel to the brim= RM145.86 [81.03litre] is the actual fuel consumed for the entire journey.

Fuel Consumption Results:
7.31l/100km, or
13.67km/litre, or
13.16cent/km @ RM1.80/litre

The tyre circumference on the car is 2% larger than the stock tyre size, hence the EXACT consumption should be adjusted accordingly; i.e
7.17litre/100km [a little bit above 7litre/100km]
13.94km/litre [almost 14km/litre]
12.90cent/km [slightly below 13cent/km]

Thanks to uncledee for the "data".

Click to read the previous 206 1.4L Fuel Consumption Survey.

206 1.4L Fuel Consumption Survey

Recently, there the 206 Bestari (1.4L 8V) got 2nd place in terms of Fuel Consumption under Compact "Premium" City Cars category for Bosch Fuel Efficiency Awards 2008 by Asian-Auto. For the event, the cute little lion scored 5.9L/100KM, while the 1st place was 5.6L/100KM by Fiat Panda.
More info can be viewed here:
http://my206club.blogspot.com/2008/12/asian-auto-bosch-fuel-efficiency-awards.html

Thumbs up and bravo for the cute little lion~ But as we all know, these test might not reflect on real life driving situations, and Fuel Consumption may varies between different driving style / drivers. The event was more of "Efficiency" and how well the cute little lion is able to perform.

So, perhaps owners or potential buyers are more concerned and interested with the actual figure or data from an actual 206 1.4L owner.
For this, we have gathered information from around and we're really greatful that one of our members are willing to share his "data" (a very detailed one, I must say).

You can also visit the link below, one of our member (intermilan) posted a topic on Fuel Consumption database contribution by any members (very good information; includes different engine variants on the 206 and also transmission).
Thanks a lot to intermilan!
http://forum.autoworld.com.my/?showtopic=35576


The below "data" and analysis is contributed by uncledee. Million~Billion thanks to uncledee for providing such detailed and useful information!


As shown in the table above, you can see it is possible to achieve up to 45mpg or 16KM/L or 6.2L/100Km for normal driving with moderate speeds (highway acording to speed limit; best is maintain around 90km/h).

Please take note that this data is accumulated by normal/daily driving, not for test reasons where one removes items in the car to reduce weight or driving without air-conditioning, etc.

The below is the table with very detailed information for your references:

And also a chart/graph for your references =)

As you can see from the "detail" data above, the Fuel Consumption may varies depending on the driving condition, style, etc.

So, hope the above information are useful for those who are interested and concern about the Fuel Consumption of the car.

As I've mentioned, the actual Fuel Consumption may varies between different drivers. The car may have "such" Fuel Consumption ratings or able to achieve such figures, but in the end, it still depends on the driver and his right foot (or whichever foot you use to press the gas pedal, or other tools/parts you may use, =P )
Thus, you may heard some owners complained badly on the Fuel Consumption while some owners have achieved very good Fuel Consumption.

Allow me to share my thoughts and views on "Fuel Consumption"; Sometimes, many people argued that they didn't drive fast (maintain around 90km/h on highways), but yet, they still have poor Fuel Consumption?
One reason I can "assume" is most probably how one actually "drive" the car; For example,
1. The number of start and stops made (engine on and off)
2. Stop and Go driving (traffic lights, traffic jams, tolls); When you stop or slowed down, you need to "push"/"move" the car up to a certain speed again.
3. How one launches off from stop or slow speed, or overtake cars.

The above, might be overlooked by some people; Yes, one might been driving sedately at 90km/h in highway, but if the person launches off the car quickly (want to get up to speed or overtake, etc), it can affect on how much Fuel is burned. It might be more obvious if there is few traffic lights or tolls, one might want to get off quickly (sounds familiar)?
But then, don't just drive like a tortoise because you want to save on "some" Fuel. Adjust and drive according to the traffic.
Another scenario is, during traffic jams, especially slight traffic jams, how you "drive" can affect your Fuel Consumption too; If you like to keep close distance, launch quickly and stop hard/harshly; You'll burn more Fuel and also affects other parts of your car, such as, brakes, suspension, etc).

Well, that's my opinion on possibilities of why sometimes 2 owners can have different Fuel Consumption figures. Of course, there is also other factors such as Fuel Quality/Brand, Engine Oil, etc. But apart from that, the driving style can also affect the Fuel Consumption. A good example I can share is, I have a friend whose girlfriend is driving a Myvi, when he drove her car, he has quite a different Fuel Consumption figures compared to hers, and both also driving about the same condition. It's the same car, but from my observation, on traffic lights, she loves to get off quickly, and during minor traffic jam on highway, my friend, the guy, hardly needs to stop compared to his girlfriend.

Lastly, despite all the concern on Fuel Consumption, hope you don't drive like a tortoise just to save a little fuel. Just drive according to speed limit and normally, adjust according to traffic condition. Please also do consider for other drivers, especially during traffic light, it's green, no car in front, but because you want to save that fuel, you just maintained your speed, not willing to step more on the gas pedal.

Drive Safely, Smartly and Be Considerate.

My206Club Forum up and running..

Thanks to AutoWorld Forum (Jaime), now My206club had its own forum where everyone can share thier tought, question, hapiness, sadness etc on it with all the members.

You can access to the forum from here My206Club Forum

But currently the forum is by invitation only.. meaning if you are invited, you can read and post if not then read only.
If you are not invited and wishes to join in the forum please do so by sending an email to Andy (My206GTi) or me

Thank you.

Peugeot 206 "Restoration" project

Peugeot 206 "Restoration" project:

Recently, due to the promotion from Naza with the 0% interest and up 12yrs loan, the 206 is getting more populors amongs malaysian. But because it was badge as Naza there is alot of owners out there that wishes to rebadge it back to Peugeot original logo/emblems.

And to that, recently there is a very high demand of the logo. Here is the list and location of the logo that can be change.

Rebadge/Restore Location

1. Usual/Most Common "Restoration"

1.Front Emblem x1


2.Rear Emblem x1


3. Original Peugeot Wording Emblem x 1

4. 206 letter (more like reposition than replace) / Bestari wording out. x1

2. Additional "Restoration"

1. Rims cap x 4

2. Engine Logo x1

(Many didn't know about this)

3. Key fob with lion logo at the back of the casing

(Something many didn't know as well... Surprise?)

3. Risky Yet Most Wishes "Restoration"


1. Steering logo (due to warranty not adviseable to change) x1

(This will make a whole lots of difference)

Additional Popular Accessories


1. Aluminium Fuel Cap x1

2. Side sile plate x 4


3. Exhaust tips

The is actually 10 badges/emblems that can be change (restore) or reposition including 1 Key fob
1. Front Grill emblem (change)
2. Rear emblem (change)
3. Front right rim cap (change)
4. Front left rim cap (change)
5. Rear right rim cap (change)
6. Rear left rim cap (change)
7. Engine logo (change)
8. Rear Peugeot wording emblem (change)
9. Rear 206 / Bestari emblem (reposition/taken out)
10. Steering logo (change)
11. Key fob

ps- the information here is not to encourage the owner to change the logo, it is just simply an info. Do it at your own risk, as certain part (eg. steering logo change) might void your warranty.

Asian Auto-BOSCH Fuel Efficiency Awards 2008 Vehicle Winners

For those who kept asking what is the 206 FC is like.. well here you can find it out yourself, not just the 206 but also 207cc

thanks to lowpro for pointing out this info.

For Peugeot/Bestari 206 come in 2nd place.

207cc 1st place and 308GT 2nd place

source

Information On The AL4 Gearbox

This gearbox first appeared in Peugeot 306 and 406 models, and Citroën's Xantia and Xsara at the same time. It's mated to four cylinder engines, and is typically identified by a "wriggly" pattern for the shift lever. Installation carried over to the Citroën C5, Peugeot 206 and 307. It's also fitted in slightly different form to other marques including Fiat.

The earlier auto box is quite different, and is characterised by a straight slot for the shift lever to slide along. This commentary doesn't really apply to that unit, aside from generalities.

One point frequently raised with the AL4 is poor reliability. What I'm trying to do here, is address both rumours and facts. It's not actually a technical "how to" but may serve as a guide for prolonging enjoyment of a car.

• Installation: Make sure that perceived transmission faults are not in fact other deficiencies, such as irregularities in the engine operation or failing motor mounts. This latter detail is coming to a head as vehicles age, especially given the original softness of their mount rubber. Also make sure the vehicle cooling system is healthy - free of scale and bled of air pockets.
• Fluid Level: There being no dipstick, the level is checked via the overflow plug with motor running and transmission in Park, at operating temperature. It's quite well covered elsewhere on the 'net. Checking it with engine off, may result in oil running out of the overflow as the internal fluid pump is not keeping a volume of fluid in circulation. Low fluid level may result in a fault being indicated as the internal pump picks up a little air now and then - dropping internal fluid pressures.
• Transmission Cooling: There is no external cooling for the gearbox oil. It circulates from the internal pump, through a heat exchanger that looks like a beefed up cigarette packet on the back of the gearbox (near the left front wheel). This heat exchanger is plumbed into the car's cooling system with hoses of about 16mm internal diameter. Three different heat exchangers have been used. The smallest was fitted only to gearboxes with the 1.6 litre petrol engines, while the largest came on turbo diesels. Rebuilders here only use the larger two sizes, and a rebuilt trans will typically have a new heat exchanger fitted for best efficiency. It's my personal opinion that auto transmissions in mainland Australia cannot be overcooled.
• Adaptive Behaviour: The gearbox is rumoured to understand intimately your moods, intentions, know the road ahead and generally behave as experienced valet to your French magic carpet. Truth is somewhat less stunning. It simply looks at how you are driving it and attempts to help based on past "learning" events. One comment made by a transmission rebuilder, is that it responds well to an assertive driving style. In other words - let the gearbox know your intentions clearly. Accelerate smartly and it will kick down; feather the throttle off as you approach cruising speed and it will soon upshift. Brake firmly and it will downshift.
• Alternative Modes: Most come with a three way switch panel allowing choice of Sport, Snow or low gear operation. For all intents and purposes, I have not noticed any benefits in the "Sport" setting - other than pulling hard out of an intersection into fast-moving traffic, and am yet to experience either snow or a need for creeping along in first gear. Don't drive with the car in "1" mode unless you have a clear understanding of when this is to be used (refer owner's manual).
• Fault Lights: Infamously, when the two dash symbols for Snow and Sport flash (a little asterisk, and a stylised "S") there is an internal fault being recognised. This fault may be transient or somewhat more long term. The transmission has its own ECU; it does not have shifts controlled by the engine ECU. The default or limp home mode puts the trans into second gear without much subtlety in shifting.
• Internal Components: The basic guts of an auto haven't changed much for years. The big differences are working tolerances, and how shifts are actuated (electronically, rather than purely hydro-mechanical). Often referred to in AL4 tales of woe, are "the solenoids". There are in fact a good deal of solenoids or electrovalves in the transmission, but the two problem ones are atop the valve body ("hydraulic block" in Franglais) - this is all behind the black pressed metal cover on the transmission front.
  
  Some years ago, the top two solenoids were recognised as a weakness, and revised. These are driven by a pulsed current to avoid permanently magnetising or overheating. Old solenoids were pulsed at 50 Hz, while the newer type are pulsed at 100Hz. Solenoid failure here, causes the default into "limp home" mode. When these are changed, the transmission ECU is supposed to be updated with a computer download. The update can be done without changing solenoids - old ones will operate on a 100Hz pulse, but newer units won't function satisfactorily on 50Hz.
• Fluid Condition: Remembering that trans fluid has to do its job in a wide range of categories - cooling, cleaning and lubricating - it's a big ask. Over time the fluid will age and effectiveness is blunted. The transmission ECU includes a "oil wear counter" that adds in appropriate details based on operating temperature, fault events and accrued hours. When the counter is full (rather like putting coins in a jar) the unit needs a service and the wear counter resetting. A simple fluid drain/top up as mentioned earlier is calculated to allow a partial reset of the wear counter, by subtracting 2750 (presently this is a non-verified number) wear units per half litre of oil. Internet sources put the wear counter total at 32768 units.
• Rebuilding: At present, rebuilt transmission in Australia, are only supplied by A&B Automatic Transmissions in Victoria. Due to arrangements in place with PSA, they will only supply the units to accredited dealers. Rebuilt tansmissions come with fluid (Esso) already filled to correct volume. I am not certain if the original ECU is changed over to the rebuilt transmission but consider it likely.
• Perspective: The AL4 probably deserved its poor reputation at the outset - however, like bias against other aspects of the European makers this has lingered beyond fairness. Matters may have been aggavated by lack of customer liaison here; there perhaps could have been superior handling of drivetrain issues arising when cars were still under warranty, in some instances. It's a fine line between admitting fault and trying to improve customer confidence.

Source

AL4 Gearbox (Water in Gearbox)

206 AL4 Automatic Transmission Gearbox

It is said that you should becareful when driving over flood or pool of water, esepcially with a automatic transmission Peugeot. 

There is a known risk of water getting into the gearbox (altough not 100% proven, it usually happens due to this reason). As to why and how the water can get into the gearbox, nobody knows the "real" reasons, most people suspect what they called the "breather hole" (which they claimed it's for the gearbox to breathe, letting hot air out?).

However, according to the technical documentation of the AL4 Gearbox, there is not such thing as "breather hole/hose"; I think what they're reffering to is the "Filler Plug", which is use to fill the ATF. But, this "Filler Plug"  should be sealed tight,  so we have no idea of the "real" reason as to why and how the water can get into the gearbox; Currently all are just speculactions or assumptions or the infamous "hear-say".

The Good News? 

It seems most of the current model had been modified to counter this problems (hopefully):

Current AL4 Gearbox with a cap? to cover the "Filler Plug" (or so called "breather hole") to avoid water from going in (Blue cap?)

Symptoms Of Possibility Of Water In The Gearbox:

• Gear slippage in the morning (start the engine and straight away put on D mode and move the car, had to be in cold conditions e.g. early morning)
• While in motion/moving, extreme jerking of the car when changing gear (Abnormal hard jerking).
• Warning lights is on (Sport & Snow mode light is blinking)

If any of this symptoms happen,  its best to get your car check by the SC,  normally a simple ATF check to trace any water in it will be able to find out if the gearbox was infested by water.

In any case, if you ever encounter the "Sport & Snow Mode Blinking" issuel;  do not take the issue lightly. There must be some reason which triggers the warning. This warning could be trigger by various reasons, mainly the ATF over heat or not in good condition (e.g. dirty, water?, etc);

Do not take it lightly,  get it check immediately;  And do not pressure the gearbox before the issue is fix (e.g. Do not REV too high or constant high rev, do not stress your gearbox; Do not drive over 100km/h).
If the service centre ignores the problem due to diagnosis shows no fault, insist them to check properly, cause if it's ATF condition, it's hard to diagnose as it is not yet permanent, it could be some part of the ATF is dirty or having problem, and when the sensors detect it,  it flashes the warning. But when you send to the service centre, there warning might not be there again until the sensors detect it again.

Another personal advice I would give is, change your ATF if the diagnosis cannot detect it and the service centre cannot do anything.

5 Years Warranty and 3 Years Free Service package.

For those who had bought the 206 under the 5 years warranty and 3 years free service offer, ( somewhere around May-Sept./Oct. 2008, please check with your SA). You will received an additional Free Service Vouchers Booklet apart from your User manual and Warranty/Service Booklet.

The Warranty & Service Booklet

The Free Service Vouchers booklets will entitle you 6 times free services or for 3 years on your 206 which is including parts & labour.

The Free Service Vouchers Booklet

Inside the Vouchers Booklet inc:

1. Free First Inspection at 2500km or 3 months voucher. (this is very important to validate your car warranty)
2. 2nd Free Service Voucher at 20,000km or 12 months ( 1 years)
   
3. 3rd Free Inspection Voucher at 30,000km or 18 months
4. 4th Free Service Voucher at 40,000km or 24 months (2 years)
   
5. 5th Free Inspection Voucher at 50,000km or 30 months
6. 6th Free Service Voucher at 60,000km or 36 months (3 years)
   

Free Service voucher at 20,000km or 12 mth


Free Service voucher at 50,000km or 30 mth


Free Service voucher at 60,000km or 36 mth ( the last voucher of the booklet)

Also you might notice that inside your Warranty & Service Booklet the expired date of the warranty is written 3 years after the car first registered. That is because the additional 2 years warranty (of the supposely 5 years warranty) papers (or whatever black and white) will be send to you by Naza itself in couples of months. Well atleast this is what was told by my SA, its seems like Peugeot only cover the original 3 years of the 206 and Naza will cover the rest of the 2 years warranty.

Anyway, just to make sure please again refer to your own SA to get the confirmation about the rest of the 2 years warranty which is not written in the Warranty & Service Booklet.

Sum- If you are under the 5 years warranty and 3 years Free service package/offer you should check if you had the

1. User manual
2. Warranty & Service Booklet (Check if the warranty is cover till 3 years or 5 years, if 3 years only the go to step 4)
   
3. Free Service Vouchers Booklet ( with 6 vouchers in it)
4. Check with your SA the additional 2 years warranty of the 5 years
   

Important Information

Useful Links:

1. Very detailed and good information on your Peugeot's servicing schedule and the recommended lubricant:

(Do have a look through, there is a detail chart for each model, and also mentioned which lubricant is not suitable for certain engines)

http://www.lubricants.total.com/lub/content/NT000B84C6.pdf

2. Citroen info on AL4 gearbox (Very useful info):
http://www.citroencarclub.org.au/images/chevrons/auto%20article%20aug%2007%20chevrons.pdf

For 206 Bestari:

1. Your BB Lion's first "Inspection" is at 2,500KM or 3 Months (whichever comes first).

This "Inspection" is important as we were told that this "inspection" will also be activating your WARRANTY.

Yes, it's a catch, so please please please do NOT miss this "inspection.

* tropical climate countries - high humidity, dusty, etc.

* urban uses - frequent stop-and-go, short distance trip, frequent heavy traffic with stop-and-go driving, etc. (e.g. taxis)

For All 206 or Peugeot with AL4 Gearbox (Automatic) in tropical climate countries and/or urban uses:

Our Recommendations:

1. Change your Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) every 30,000KM or 1 Year (whichever comes first).

2. Change your Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Filter every 60,000KM or 2 Year (whichever comes first).

3. Only use PSA (Peugeot-Citroen) specified/approved Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).

Note: If you ever notice the ATF is dirty, do not opt for flushing; instead, for this AL4, it is recommended to do multiple ATF change. For example:

1. After your initial ATF change, drive it for some time (e.g. 1,000KM), then go for 2nd ATF change.

2. If you ATF is still not clean enough, you may repeat Step 1 above.

(This is recommendation according to Citroen)

Source:

1. http://www.citroencarclub.org.au/images/chevrons/auto%20article%20aug%2007%20chevrons.pdf

2. http://www.peugeot.bm/servicing.asp

For ALL 206 or Peugeot cars in tropical climate countries and/or urban uses:

1. It is recommended to change your Brake Fluid and Coolant every 2 Years.

* Models with rear drums and no ABS, will need to change Brake Fluid every year.

* Do NOT mix DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids.

* Do NOT use DOT5 brake fluids.

2. Pay special attention to the replacement of timing belt every 3 years in older models and every 5 years in newer vechicles. Check your user handbook, and don't just look on the mileage alone.

WHY?

1. Brake Fluid:

The use of DOT4 brake fluid (which absorbs humidity from the air) it is recommended to replace the brake fluid every 2 years.

* For models with rear drums and no ABS, requires replacement every year because these models have cast iron cylinders that are more susceptible to corrision with the humidity absorbed in the fluid during the year

2. Coolant:

The coolant system must be drained and refilled every 2 years because the lubricating qualities of the anti-freeze additive breakdown, and can cause the alloy engine block to corrode.

Source: http://www.peugeot.bm/servicing.asp